TPU and PETG stick to each other better than TPU and PLA, and slicers can add interlocking beams across the seam. This page covers printer setup, nozzle and bed temperatures, joint design and what to change when the two materials come apart.
Give TPU (flexible thermoplastic polyurethane) a nozzle of its own, keep the TPU and PETG (glycol-modified PET) bodies in one object, and turn on beam interlocking in the slicer. TPU and PETG stick to each other as they print, and the interlocking beams add a mechanical lock across the seam.
How do you combine TPU and PETG in one print?
Load PETG in one nozzle and TPU in the other on a dual-nozzle printer such as the Bambu Lab H2D, H2C or X2D. Model both as parts of one object, enable “Use beam interlocking” in Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer, set the bed for whichever material prints the first layer, and dry the TPU first.
Bambu Lab’s H2D guide for rigid-plus-flexible printing uses this layout: the rigid filament in the left hotend, TPU in the right, beam interlocking on and the chamber heater off.
Do TPU and PETG stick to each other?
Yes, better than TPU and PLA do. Bambu Lab’s beam interlocking guide says “TPU and PETG can bond easily, and they adhere during printing.” The same guide says TPU and standard PLA “often suffer from layer separation or weak adhesion, especially at the corners.”
Bambu Lab’s guide says a seam between materials that bond poorly can delaminate under a little pressure, and its example is a phone case with a PETG body and TPU edges. Without the beams, the TPU sides can peel off with repeated handling. With them, the TPU edges are locked into the PETG.
Bambu Lab supports mixed printing only for certain TPU grades. The H2 series TPU guide lists TPU 90A, TPU 95A HF and TPU for AMS as supporting mixed printing with PLA and PETG on the H2D and H2C. The TPU 85A/90A store page states it more narrowly: PLA/PETG multi-material printing is “only available on the H2D/H2C when using TPU 90A”, and it is not supported on the H2S, X Series, P Series or A Series.
Which printers can print TPU and PETG in one job?
Any printer with two nozzles or two tools. Each machine limits which nozzle can take TPU and how the TPU is fed, including whether it can come from an AMS (Bambu Lab’s automatic spool changer):
| Printer |
Nozzle for TPU |
How TPU reaches the nozzle |
| Bambu Lab H2D |
Right nozzle (keeps the left free for PETG) |
TPU for AMS from an AMS on the right nozzle; 90A and 95A HF by hand from an AMS HT or dry box through the rear TPU inlet; 85A straight into the extruder |
| Bambu Lab H2C |
Right nozzle only |
Same feeding methods as the H2D |
| Bambu Lab X2D |
Main (left) nozzle only |
95A HF from an external spool; 90A and 85A from a top-mounted holder or the TPU Feed Assist Module |
| Prusa XL (multi-tool) |
Its own tool |
Loaded into that tool following Prusa’s flexible-filament video |
On the H2D, either nozzle can print TPU. TPU on the left nozzle locks out the right nozzle, because the left hotend’s up-and-down movement twists the TPU. TPU on the right nozzle leaves the left free for PETG. Bambu Studio’s filament grouping treats this as a high-priority rule. Assigning filament to the left or right nozzle shows how to change the grouping by hand.
The X2D’s auxiliary nozzle is fed through a long PTFE (Teflon) tube from its own extruder motor. Bambu Lab says its feed resistance is too high for TPU, so TPU goes in the main nozzle and PETG in the auxiliary one. PETG is on the auxiliary nozzle’s supported list.
TPU and PETG print settings
Each filament keeps its own nozzle temperature. These are Bambu Lab’s data-sheet ranges:
| Setting |
TPU 90A |
TPU 95A HF |
TPU for AMS (68D) |
PETG HF |
| Nozzle temperature |
200 to 250 °C |
220 to 240 °C |
220 to 240 °C |
230 to 260 °C |
| Bed temperature |
30 to 35 °C |
30 to 35 °C |
30 to 35 °C |
65 to 75 °C |
| Printing speed |
under 200 mm/s |
under 200 mm/s |
under 250 mm/s |
under 300 mm/s |
| Chamber temperature |
25 to 45 °C |
25 to 45 °C |
25 to 45 °C |
35 to 50 °C |
| Nozzle sizes |
0.4, 0.6, 0.8 mm |
0.4, 0.6, 0.8 mm |
0.4, 0.6, 0.8 mm |
0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 mm |
| Drying (forced-air oven) |
70 °C, 8 h |
70 °C, 8 h |
70 °C, 8 h |
65 °C, 8 h |
Bambu Lab lists maximum volumetric speeds of 12 mm³/s for TPU 95A HF and 18 mm³/s for TPU for AMS, and it advises against raising the default speed of TPU 85A and 90A. Keep each filament’s own profile; the slicer applies it per nozzle.
The bed is the one setting the two materials share, and the ranges do not overlap. PrusaSlicer takes the first-layer bed temperature from the first extruder that prints, and later layers from the first extruder on layer 2. “Bed temperature by extruder” under Print Settings > Multiple Extruders overrides this. Bambu Lab’s soft-and-hard guide says that when the first layer is all TPU, or TPU carries the part, you should leave the TPU bed temperature as it is and set the rigid filament’s bed temperature to 70 °C or less.
A textured PEI (polyetherimide) plate appears on all four data sheets. Bambu Lab’s X2D TPU guide says not to put glue on a textured PEI plate for TPU, since it makes TPU stick too hard. On other plates, apply glue. The H2D guide warns that TPU can damage a high-temperature plate when removed if no glue was applied.
How to print TPU and PETG in one job
- Dry both filaments. Dry TPU at 70 °C for 8 hours and PETG HF at 65 °C for 8 hours in a forced-air oven. Bambu Lab’s soft-and-hard guide gives 75 °C for 18 hours in an AMS HT and warns that undried TPU carries “a high risk of clogging.”
- Fit the right nozzles. Use 0.4 mm or larger for TPU 90A and 95A HF, and 0.6 or 0.8 mm for TPU 85A. Bambu Lab’s H2 guide says not to use a 0.2 mm nozzle or a standard high-flow nozzle for TPU. On the X2D both hotends must be the same size; two nozzle sizes on the H2D covers the H2D. If the TPU hotend last printed carbon- or glass-filled filament, do 3 to 5 cold pulls first.
- Load PETG and TPU. On an H2D or H2C, put PETG in an AMS on the left nozzle. Feed TPU to the right nozzle by the method its grade needs: through an AMS for TPU for AMS, or by hand for 90A, 95A HF and 85A. On an X2D, TPU goes to the main nozzle and PETG to the auxiliary one. To load soft TPU by hand, heat the nozzle to 250 °C and push the filament into the extruder. Then tap the extrude arrow one press at a time so the TPU does not wrap around the gears.
- Model the two materials as one object. Import the TPU and PETG bodies as parts of a single object, or paint the TPU regions onto one body. Beam interlocking “only works within a single object” and does nothing between two separate objects.
- Assign each filament to its nozzle. In Bambu Studio, check the Filament Grouping panel after slicing, or use Custom grouping to pin TPU to the right nozzle (main nozzle on the X2D).
- Turn on beam interlocking. In Bambu Studio it is under Global > Others > Advanced > “Use beam interlocking”. In OrcaSlicer it is on the Multimaterial tab under Advanced. In PrusaSlicer 2.9 it is under Print Settings > Multiple Extruders > Advanced.
- Set the bed temperature. Use the PETG bed temperature if PETG prints the first layer. If the first layer is all TPU, keep TPU’s bed temperature and set PETG’s to 70 °C or less.
- Keep the chamber heater off and use a prime tower. Bambu Lab’s soft-and-hard guide has the chamber temperature turned off for this setup. Bambu Lab’s X2D FAQ recommends a prime tower on dual-nozzle prints to clear residue from each nozzle after a switch.
- Print a test coupon first. Bambu Lab’s guide suggests a test print before a large job. Pull the coupon apart by hand before printing the real part.
Beam interlocking settings
Bambu Lab’s guide and OrcaSlicer’s source give these defaults:
| Setting |
Default |
What changing it does |
| Interlocking beam width |
0.8 mm |
Wider beams grip more; Bambu Lab says 0.2 mm makes the bond very weak |
| Interlocking direction |
22.5° |
Angle of the beams; align the part so the seam is perpendicular to the beams |
| Interlocking beam layers |
2 |
Fewer layers bond more strongly but print with more defects |
| Interlocking depth |
2 cells |
How far the beams reach into each material; deeper can add filament changes |
| Interlocking boundary avoidance |
2 cells (OrcaSlicer) |
Keeps beams back from the outer walls; higher values give cleaner walls and weaker edges |
How to print a rigid part with a flexible gasket in one job
Model the gasket as a TPU part of the same object as the PETG body, and give the seam enough area to grip:
- Sink the gasket into a groove. A TPU bead seated in a PETG channel touches the PETG on three faces, not one. Its walls also hold it in place if the seam starts to peel. The beams need room inside both bodies, so leave the walls around the channel thick enough for the interlocking depth you set.
- Make the seam wide. Beam interlocking only builds where the two materials touch. A thin TPU strip on the edge of a PETG wall gives it little to anchor into. Bambu Lab notes that the walls around the joint must be thick enough to keep their strength.
- Put PETG on the bed where you can. Prusa’s XL guide warns that rigid filament printed on top of TPU layers can push those layers around. Starting the print in PETG also keeps the bed at PETG’s temperature.
- Pick the TPU hardness for the seal, then the feed method. TPU 85A and 90A are the softest Bambu grades, and both need manual feeding. TPU for AMS goes through any AMS, but at Shore 68D it is harder than the A-scale grades.
Can you print TPU and PETG with one nozzle and an AMS?
Only with the stiffest TPU, and Bambu Lab does not list the combination as supported. TPU 85A, 90A and 95A HF are listed as not compatible with the AMS, AMS lite and AMS 2 Pro. The AMS HT can hold them, but every TPU except TPU for AMS has to be fed by hand. That leaves TPU for AMS (68D) as the one grade an AMS can swap in and out of a single nozzle. Bambu Lab lists PLA/PETG multi-material printing with TPU only for the dual-nozzle H2D and H2C.
A single-nozzle swap also has to flush PETG out of the nozzle and push TPU in at every change, which costs time and filament on every layer that holds both. Multi-color printing explains how filament changers flush, and dual-nozzle purge waste compares the two approaches.
What to do if the TPU and PETG layers separate
- Check that beam interlocking ran. Look in the sliced preview for beams crossing the seam. If there are none, the TPU and PETG are probably separate objects; combine them into one.
- Raise the interlocking depth or beam width. Bambu Lab shows depth raised from 2 to 6 reaching further into each material. A beam width below the 0.8 mm default weakens the joint.
- Dry the TPU again. Wet TPU strings, oozes and clogs, which leaves thin or missing extrusion at the seam. Bambu Lab’s H2 guide lists missing material on the surface as a sign of clogging, feed resistance or filament slipping.
- Reduce feed resistance. Shorten the PTFE path, let the spool turn freely, or switch to a top-mounted holder or the TPU Feed Assist Module. On the H2D, if 90A or 95A HF still prints with gaps through the rear inlet, Bambu Lab says to feed it like 85A or use the top-feed rack.
- Make sure the pair is PETG, not PLA. Bambu Lab’s guide pairs TPU with PETG for bonding and warns that TPU with standard PLA tends to separate.
- Turn the chamber heater off. Bambu Lab’s rigid-and-TPU setup runs with the chamber off, and its TPU data sheets list a chamber range of 25 to 45 °C.
- Increase the prime tower purge. Prusa’s XL guide tested TPU at 35 mm³ of minimum purge and suggests up to 70 mm³ if it strings or oozes. A larger purge also stops rigid layers from shifting TPU layers below them.