Bambu Lab hotend on an Ender 3 or Voron: wiring and config

Yes. The Bambu Lab X1 and P1 hotend runs on any 24 V printer. It needs a mount, airflow over its heatsink, its 48 W heater and thermistor wired to the board and firmware set for that thermistor. Bambu Lab publishes no thermistor curve, so check the community setting you use against a thermocouple before printing hot.

Can you put a Bambu Lab hotend on an Ender 3?

Yes. A Bambu Lab X1 or P1 hotend fits a Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2 with a printed adapter for the stock MK8-style carriage. The Ender 3 runs on 24 V, so the 48 W heater suits it. The leads need extending, the firmware a thermistor setting and the heater a PID (proportional-integral-derivative) tune.

Three community mounts target the Ender 3, sorted by name. All are free files on Printables.

Two things change on the Ender 3 itself. The nozzle height moves, so raise the Z endstop or probe offset before the first home. And the heater gets stronger: TH3D’s replacement hotend kit for the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 (all 24 V printers) has a 40 W heater, so the Bambu Lab heater adds 8 W and draws 2 A. To move the extruder onto the carriage as well, see direct drive on an Ender 3.

What voltage and wattage is the Bambu Lab hotend heater?

The Bambu Lab X1 and P1 hotend heater is a 48 W ceramic heater that runs on 24 V. Bambu Lab lists 48 W for its X1C and P1 Series heaters, and its X1C and P1 power supply outputs 24 V to everything except the heated bed. Bambu Lab rates the heater to 300 °C at the nozzle.

Bambu Lab’s parts, sorted by price at the Bambu Lab US store on October 30, 2026:

Each heater and thermistor pack includes thermal grease and retaining clips. The Hotend version is the bare hotend; the Complete Hotend comes with heater and thermistor fitted, as Bambu Lab’s P1 hotend guide shows. The X1C heater and thermistor have a lead each, which is simpler to rewire for another board than the P1 module’s shared connector.

Bambu Lab prints no voltage on the heater listings. An owner on Bambu Lab’s forum measured several heaters at 10.4 to 12.5 Ω cold, about 12 Ω, and worked that out as 48 W at a nominal 24 V. Fit the heater only to a 24 V printer.

The hotend body is listed to 320 °C, but the heater and thermistor are rated to 300 °C, so 300 °C is the ceiling with these parts. The temperature limits explainer covers why the weakest part sets the limit.

What thermistor does the Bambu Lab hotend use?

Bambu Lab does not name the thermistor in its X1 and P1 hotends. Its listing gives only an operating range of -10 to 300 °C and lists glass among the materials, with no part number, resistance curve or beta value. The Klipper and Marlin settings people use come from community configs, which disagree, so check yours against a thermocouple.

Public Klipper configs that run a Bambu Lab hotend use these curves, sorted by sensor_type. All are community choices, not Bambu Lab specs. Points for the built-in types are Klipper’s own definitions from each maker’s datasheet. The custom Bambulab NTC points are as written in that config, which does not say how they were measured.

The curves agree near room temperature and spread apart as the hotend heats. At about 300 °C the custom definition has 116.95 Ω where the ATC Semitec curves have 80.65 and 82.78 Ω. A curve that does not match the part misreads the temperature most near the 300 °C rating.

How to check the thermistor setting

1. Check it cold. After the printer has sat off, the nozzle should read room temperature, as Klipper’s configuration checks describe.
2. Add a reference. Tape a K-type thermocouple bead (a multimeter probe works) to the nozzle or heater block with Kapton tape, under the silicone sock.
3. Compare at three temperatures. Heat to 150, 200 and 250 °C, let each settle and note both readings. A taped probe reads the surface, so it sits a little low; a gap that widens as the temperature climbs means the curve is wrong.
4. Change the curve if needed. Try another curve from the table and repeat. Klipper also accepts a custom [thermistor] section with three temperature and resistance pairs, or one pair and a beta value.

How do you configure a Bambu Lab hotend in Klipper?

To configure a Bambu Lab hotend in Klipper, edit the [extruder] section. Set heater_pin and sensor_pin to the outputs you wired and max_temp to 300 or lower. Bambu Lab publishes no sensor_type, so use a community curve and verify it. Then run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder and SAVE_CONFIG.

[extruder]
# ...keep your stepper, rotation_distance and nozzle lines...
heater_pin: <heater output you wired>
sensor_pin: <thermistor input you wired>
sensor_type: Generic 3950   # community-derived: verify it (see above)
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 300               # Bambu Lab's heater and thermistor rating
min_extrude_temp: 170
control: pid
# keep the old pid_Kp, pid_Ki and pid_Kd until PID_CALIBRATE replaces them

[heater_fan hotend_fan]
pin: <heatsink fan output>
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0           # fan stays on until the hotend is below 50 °C

• Custom curve: for the Bambulab NTC points, add a [thermistor Bambulab NTC] section with temperature1 to resistance3 and set sensor_type: Bambulab NTC. Klipper needs the [thermistor] section above the heater that uses it.
• pullup_resistor: describes your board, not the thermistor. Keep Klipper’s 4,700 Ω default unless your board’s config already sets another value.
• max_temp: Klipper rejects any target above it (“Requested temperature out of range”) and shuts down if a reading passes it, so print a few degrees below 300. Klipper’s Ender 3 example sets 250; raise it no higher than 300.
• PID tune: at your usual print temperature, run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=250, then SAVE_CONFIG.
• Thermal protection: leave Klipper’s heater checks on. Fan air across the heater block can slow heating enough to trip them; see Klipper heater verification before changing a setting.

Marlin settings for an Ender 3

Marlin compiles the thermistor in, so changing it means rebuilding the firmware.

• TEMP_SENSOR_0: Marlin’s Ender-3 example uses 1, the EPCOS 100k table and one of the curves above. 5 is the ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4 table. 11 is the Keenovo beta 3950 table, the same source as Klipper’s Generic 3950. 1000 is a custom thermistor set by HOTEND0_RESISTANCE_25C_OHMS and HOTEND0_BETA in Configuration_adv.h.
• HEATER_0_MAXTEMP: the Ender-3 example sets 275, and HOTEND_OVERSHOOT of 15 caps targets at 260 °C. Keep it at or below 300 for these parts, which allows targets up to 285 °C. See raising firmware temperature limits.
• THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS: enabled in Marlin’s Ender-3 example. Confirm it is on in the build you flash.
• PID tune: M303 E0 C8 S250 U1 tunes at 250 °C and applies the result; M500 saves the values.

Bambu Lab hotend on a Voron: which mounts fit?

Voron Design’s own Voron 0.2 files include a Mini Stealthburner mount for the Bambu Lab X1C hotend, in standard and Fan Saver versions. The full-size Stealthburner on a Voron 2.4 or Voron Trident does not list the Bambu Lab hotend among its supported printheads, so community parts fill the gap:

• MrTeliP’s printhead remixes Sam Schmidt’s original adapter with a hexagonal interface that prints without supports.
• Rincewind76’s printhead adds M3 heat-set inserts (5 mm diameter, 3.5 to 4 mm long) and holds the hotend with M3x14 screws.

On the Voron forum, Neil_I reports that the original design leaves an open area below the heatsink, so the hotend fan blows across the heater block and nozzle; he closed the gap. Plan for short leads too. fbeauKmi, who drew a Voron 0.2 version, calls the Bambu Lab cables “pretty short”. A toolhead board on the printhead keeps the extension small. Other Stealthburner hotends are on the Voron hub.

Bambu Lab hotend on a Sovol SV08

Two community designs fit a Bambu Lab hotend in the SV08’s stock toolhead, wired two ways:

• Andrew Frahn’s adaptor, tested with official Bambu Lab hotends. Frahn says the SV08’s own heater and thermistor swap into the Bambu Lab hotend, so Sovol’s stock [extruder] section still matches the parts. He calls for a PID tune and a new Z height.
• Nadir’s SV08 Bambulab Hotend Support, a remix of Stephi Dupont’s design. It uses the Bambu Lab heater and thermistor. Nadir lengthened both leads, lists a 2-pin JST 1.25 connector for the thermistor and a 2-pin JST PH2.0 for the heater, and cut the PTFE (Teflon) tube to under 12 mm.

Sovol’s stock config uses its own thermistor table (my_thermistor_e) with pullup_resistor: 11500 and max_temp: 305. With Bambu Lab’s thermistor, change sensor_type, keep the 11,500 Ω pullup (it belongs to the SV08’s toolhead board) and set max_temp to 300. On an SV08 still under warranty, the swap is at your own risk: see does upgrading void the warranty.

Is there a V6 adapter for the Bambu Lab hotend?

Yes. These community designs adapt it to V6 mounts:

• J Hook Adapter for Bambu Hot Ends (Matt Kay), a printed V6-style mount for M3 heat-set inserts, or longer M3 screws with nuts.
• Bambu Lab’s Hotend adapter to V6 SIZE (Printing Perspective), which brings the hotend to a V6’s 62.3 mm length. It must be CNC machined from metal, not printed.
• Bambu Lab Clone V6 Adapter with M3 Nut Inserts (ObsessiveRug), a tighter remix made because the original was loose on its designer’s v2.0 clone hotend.

Clone hotends are not always the same size as Bambu Lab’s, so check which hotend each mount targets.

How to fit a Bambu Lab hotend to an Ender 3 or Voron

1. Check the supply. Confirm the printer runs on 24 V. The Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 do.
2. Get the parts. Buy a Bambu Lab hotend with an X1C heater and thermistor, or a Complete Hotend with both fitted. Add the mount’s screws and inserts, and extension wire rated for at least 2 A on the heater pair.
3. Print the mount. karel bitter suggests PETG or ABS for the Ender 3 adapter.
4. Assemble the hot side. Follow Bambu Lab’s order. Spread thermal grease and fit the thermistor with its cable routed. Then fit the heater so its cable holds the thermistor cable in place, and add the clip and the sock.
5. Mount the hotend and fan. Fix the hotend with M3 screws. A fan must cool the heatsink fins without blowing across the heater block.
6. Wire it with the power off. Extend both leads with crimped connectors that match your board, add strain relief where the wires flex, and connect the heater to a heater output and the thermistor to a thermistor input.
7. Set the firmware. Enter the sensor type, max_temp and heatsink fan as in the Klipper or Marlin settings above, with thermal runaway protection left on.
8. Check readings. Power on and confirm room temperature, then set 50 °C and watch it rise. If it does not, or climbs with the heater off, cut power and recheck the wiring.
9. Verify the thermistor. Compare against a thermocouple at 150, 200 and 250 °C before printing hotter.
10. PID tune. Run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=250 and SAVE_CONFIG in Klipper, or M303 E0 C8 S250 U1 and M500 in Marlin.
11. Reset Z and the filament path. Set the Z offset again, since the nozzle height changes, and trim any PTFE tube to the new length. Z offset at temperature covers the hot check.